Almond Oil • Valued for centuries for its famed healing and health properties sweet almond oil is one of nature’s great emollients being able to fill the gaps in your hair and skin at a cellular level to make your hair and skin feel smoother. Due to it’s high acid content and resulting nourishing properties it locks in moisture and is one of the few oils that can be used directly on broken or even babies skin, moisturising without any irritation. It has high levels of protein (amino acids), vitamin E, magnesium and omega 9 fatty acids, is extremely hydrating and provides softness, strength, lustre and shine to hair. Its lubricating qualities diminishes friction during styling and is often used as treatment for flaking scalp and psoriasis
Oxidative stress is one of the main reasons for the deterioration of collagen layer and as almond oil contains Vitamin E; one of the most potent antioxidants which can help repair some of the damage done to the collagen layer. The oil is especially rich in proteins and can provide the amino acids required for the formation of collagen.
Amino Acids • The basis of all life processes and are present in all of our products as they are the building blocks in the creation of proteins. Protein makes up around twenty percent of the human body and plays a crucial role in every metabolic process. A large proportion of our cells, muscles and tissue is made up of amino acids, meaning they carry out many important bodily functions, such as giving cells their structure. They play a key role in the transport and the storage of all nutrients (water, fat, minerals etc) and have an influence on the function of organs, glands, tendons and arteries. Essential for healing wounds and repairing tissue, especially in the muscles, bones, skin and hair as well as for the removal of all kinds of waste deposits produced in connection with the metabolism.
Amino Silicones • Our laboratory created formula is derived from quartz. It is targeted at everyday use with lighter weight conditioning that will not weigh the hair down but is of a high enough molecular composition to ensure a long lasting effect. It helps reduces the loss of colour and provides excellent conditioning to both normal and highly processed hair, enhancing shine, smoothness and reducing static. Additionally it acts as a hair protectant helping to improve elasticity and preventing subsequent damage from occurring.
Avocado Oil • Avocado oil has legendary moisture retention and restorative properties due to its lightweight but nutrition rich content that absorbs quickly and deeply into the Medulla and cuticle for instantly visible results. The list of benefits for the skin and hair is almost endless as the oil is rich in essential fatty acids (oleic acid) and contains over 25 vital nutrients and minerals including vitamin A, B1, B2, D, E, and even the rarely found vitamin K, copper, potassium, iron, magnesium and phosphorus. The majority of essential fatty acids found in avocado oil are monounsaturated oleic acid, the same omega-9 EFA that won olive oil its claim to fame. Specifically for the hair, Oleic acid controls water loss in your strands while making your hair softer and more pliable. Its concentrations of minerals such as magnesium and potassium make avocado oil particularly good for the hair with hair follicle needing magnesium to hold its strength and formation and potassium to enable the follicle to absorb vital nutrients to stay healthy. With high concentrations of Vitamin E it is one of nature’s antioxidants too.
Broad Band Filter • Our laboratory created broad band filter protection system is widely used in sun preparations as a highly effective UVA and UVB absorber for both skin and hair. It offers protection against the damage from UV rays and specifically protection against colour fading from the elements.
Cotton Seed Oil • Pressed from the mature kernels after harvesting, cotton seed oil is rich in Vitamin E, protein and the essential oleic and linoleic fatty acids, it is recognised for its ability to build up the scalp’s protective barrier and boost immunity against irritants, bacteria and other external pollutants. Cotton protein helps stimulate blood circulation in the scalp and increases the supply of oxygen and nutrients fundamental to the strength and growth of the follicles. This action invigorates the follicles and aids in promoting stronger, thicker hair. Cotton protein is one of the few natural oils that can withstand high heat with its “smoking point” of about 450F it is the perfect protection against styling heat. The high concentration of fatty acids in cotton seed oil goes hand in hand with much sought after natural Ceramides which are lipids naturally present in the hair cuticle. They bind the cuticles and keep them in place, giving the strands that “healthy hair” sheen. Without them, the hair can dry out, which can lead to damage. And if that wasn’t enough the levels of Vitamin E also serve as an antioxidant to fight any cellular damage caused by oxidative stress.
Cystine Co-Polymer • Cystine is an amino acid that forms part of healthy skin, hair and bones. It is found in particularly high concentrations in the alpha-keratin protein that makes up the fingernails, skin and hair. Our formula is laboratory blended with a new generation silicone to penetrate deep into the hair to help prevent and repair cuticle damage from within. As it dries on the hair it creates a cross linking structure to help prevent much of the damage caused by styling and also enhances the sheen of your hair. Last but certainly not least our specific co-polymer performed exceptionally well in laboratory tests , improving curl retention for up to 16 hours so it is perfect post perming/curling treatment.
Green Tea Extract • Central to all our formulas purified extraction of green tea polyphenols (camellia sinesis) is a powerful anti-oxidant and quencher of free radicals such as pollution, sun, wind and UV rays which can cause colour loss, cell damage and thinning hair. Its extensive list of antioxidants includes B vitamins, folate (naturally occurring folic acid), manganese, potassium, magnesium, caffeine and most notably catechins (natural plant phenols) which occur in concentrated form in the green tea leaves.
Kaolin • Our Cornish clay is rich in silica yet chemically inert so it’s suitable for even the most sensitive of skin. We primarily use this white clay to help our Legend treatment set on the hair but Kaolin has been used in hair masks for centuries as it has fantastic absorbent properties to detoxify your hair but not strip the scalp of its natural oils. Research has linked it to improved scalp circulation, improved root strength and of course its gentle removal of grime and dirt.
Laboratory Created Polymer M • Our laboratory created polymer has been designed to provide exceptional protection against heat damage up to a temp of 220 degrees. This is important as many of the new styling aids can reach temperatures well over the traditional 180 degrees. In laboratory tests using heat stylers this specific polymer showed an improvement in the condition of the cuticle without any signs of lifting, buckling or crackling of the cuticle scales. As a result the hair surface becomes smoother and there is less friction from combing and styling, the blowdrying speed is increased, frizz is reduced and your hair feels stronger and softer. As an added bonus it is also great for helping curl retention. The laboratory tests for this ingredient have shown that even after 16 hours the curl retention can still be as high as 68% (Lab tests on European hair).
Magnesium • Not many people realize just how critical magnesium is to your body. This mineral is responsible for approximately 300 metabolic processes in your body. Several types of research and investigations have shown that deficit of magnesium in your body will affect your hair growth and prompt hair loss in an abnormal manner. The reason behind this is that hair follicles need this supplement to create strong hair follicles and hair strands which will stay intact for a long time.
Like any other part of the body or component of health, hair needs a variety of nutrients to grow and be healthy and magnesium is an often overlooked but essential mineral for hair health.
In terms of the skin, magnesium’s role in the enzymes that manage DNA repair and replication are well documented as well as it’s ability to ease conditions such as eczema and psoriasis which makes it’s the perfect ingredient for all skin types.
Neutrally Charged Fixative • Our simple fixative is laboratory created and is the perfect partner to the salts as it essentially creates a light film to give a soft and textured flexible hold that is easy to wash out and non greasy. It’s gives curl and style holding properties without build-up, flaking or dulling of hair.
Oilseed Turnip • This cationic (positively charged) compound is derived from common oilseed turnip and is absorbed into the negatively charged surfaces of the hair. Because of this and its associated properties it offers a superb softening effect for thick and hard to manage hair whilst also conditioning, detangling and fighting static and flyaway hair too. Since it is plant and not petrochemical-based it doesn’t coat but rather penetrates the hair shaft for potent conditioning effects.
Potassium • One of the seven essential macro minerals, along with calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, sodium, chloride, and sulfur. It is a major electrolyte in our bodies responsible for keeping cell hydrates and supporting the growth of new skin cells too.
If your body isn’t getting enough potassium, it can cause an excessive amount of sodium to build-up around the follicles of the hair. This then stops the follicles being able to absorb other vital nutrients that it needs to stay healthy. Potassium deficiency is one of the major reasons behind hair loss in both men and women.
Prickly Pear • Our prickly pear cactus extract is one of our two main exfoliators which focus on scalp health. Its complex carbohydrates (oligosaccharide) stimulate the activity of skin enzymes involved in the natural exfoliation process and encourage cell renewal to help with healthy hair growth. It is also naturally high in essential minerals like calcium, potassium, magnesium and phospherus.
Pro Vitamin B5 • You can’t have a conditioner without a touch of Pathenol. Known across the world as pro-vitamin B5, it is highly valued in skin and hair care for its moisturising and deep conditioning properties. In short, small molecules penetrate the hair shaft gradually metabolising into Pantothenic Acid which is a key constituent of healthy hair. This helps prevent hair damage/breakage by maximising the water storage capacity of the hair especially in bleached or damaged hair and provides a protective coating to improve thickness, shine and protect against hair damage.
Salt Trio • Our intensely salty formula is a blend of 3 different salts designed to create a matt textured look without any greasiness of heaviness. Exceptionally high in magnesium this mineral is responsible for approximately 300 metabolic processes in your body and our hair follicles need this supplement to create strong hair strands which will stay intact for a long time. Our primary salt is raw, organic sea salt from the Algarve in Portugal which is harvested just once a year by hand through a small farming co-operative. With no chemical processing the purity of the salt is maintained by following the same process as it was 100’s of years ago and it has a unique intensity of magnesium and potassium; two of the key minerals for hair health and growth. In fact the farmers will tell you when you eat the salt it’s the magnesium that you can taste and not the salt itself. Located in part of a marine nature reserve the salt is organically certified by “Nature & Progres” the French Organic authority.
Sea Salt, Single Raw, Organic • One of the lesser known benefits of sea salt is for the stimulation of healthy hair growth. Massaging the scalp with the sea salt aids in improved circulation of blood and strengthens the hair follicles and with our bodies containing the same concentration of minerals and nutrients as sea water it is no wonder it is a natural ally in maintaining the balance of the body. One of our two natural exfoliators this raw, organic sea salt from the Algarve is harvested just once a year by hand through a small farming co-operative. With no chemical processing the purity of the salt is maintained by following the same process as it was 100’s of years ago and it has a unique intensity of magnesium and potassium; two of the key minerals for hair health and growth. In fact, the farmers will tell you when you eat the salt it’s the magnesium that you can taste and not the salt itself. Located in part of a marine nature reserve the salt is organically certified by “Nature & Progres” the French Organic authority.
Shea Butter • Shea butter is rich in powerful plant antioxidants, such as vitamins A and E which help protect your cells from the free radicals and environmental stresses that can lead to cell damage, colour loss and thinning hair. It is also particularly rich in oleic acid (also known as Omega 9) which is crucial for well moisturized and soft hair.
Silicone: Postively Charged • One of the new generation of silicones, this 100% active single molecule coats and then smooths the hair strands to trap the water inside to both moisturise and condition. This coating also repels water from the hair strand by increasing the contact angle of the water so that any water hitting the surface forms beads and is easily blown away, effectively working towards a reduced blow dry time. Positively charged it is attracted to the negatively charged hair fibres to create a strong bond allowing it to work towards improving the softness, comb through, condition and shine of the hair without causing greasiness or heaviness. Ironically, our silicone is also water soluble to allow for easy cleansing during your shampoo.
Silicone - Smart, Water Soluble • One of the new quartz derived, water based silicones that gives multi- functional benefits without any associated residue build up. We love this silicone as not only does in help with repairing and smoothing out the hair, it also assists in protecting against colour fade and provides a great base for creating, flexible yet defined curls.
Sodium Coco Sulfate • The BAR (only) uses Sodium Coco Sulfate as a key cleansing agent (a surfactant). All surfactants are partly water-soluble and partly oil-soluble, allowing oil and water to become dispersed. Above a minimum concentration, the surfactant molecules become organised in a structure that can trap the oil-based dirt from the hair, allowing it to be rinsed away and therefore cleansing the hair and skin.
Sodium Coco Sulfate and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate are scientifically recognised as different molecular structures; SLS has a much lower molecular weight than our plant derived SCS which means it penetrates the outer layers of the skin and can cause irritation. For 100% clarity SLS does make up a part of the overall structure of the more complex SCS so we have removed our ‘SLS free’ claim on this product. The Bar is however 100% SLES FREE as it is not put through the process of ethoxylation (this is the critical process which has the evidence to support a potential link to cancer and environmental hazards).
There is a large amount of confusing information on Sodium Coco Sulfate ( SCS) which has resulted in disagreement as to whether it is genuinely free from Sodium Lauryl Sulfate so for those of you who would like to know we have written two explainations; one in summary and the other a more detailed technical breakdown.
Sodium Coco Sulfate (SCS) is actually very similar to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) but it’s main difference is that it’s always derived from plant oil and uses a blend of fatty acids that exclude the lauric fatty acid element (the lauryl part of SLS). Both are produced using the same process of treating those fatty acids with a type of sulfuric acid and then neutralizing with an alkali. Because of this lack of lauric fatty acid in SCS, companies often claim on their label that their products are SLS-Free. In reality SCS is made up of a complex blend of sodium caprylic sulfate, sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate, sodium oleic sulfate and also sodium lauryl sulfate.
SLS on its own has a bad reputation because is a relatively simple molecule and has a small molecular mass enabling it to easily penetrate the outer layers of the skin and cause irritation to underlying living skin cells. On the other hand, SCS has a much more complex molecular structure which has a much greater molecular mass which then prevents it from penetrating the epidermis in the same way as SLS and means that it has far less irritancy as it cannot reach the living cells under the skin surface.
This difference is factually recognised by international authorities, and in fact these two molecules do have different CAS Numbers (Chemical Abstracts Service which identifies all chemical compounds in an internationally approved database). The CAS Number for SLS is 151-21-3, but for SCS it is 97375-27-4. This can be confirmed by checking the official EU Cosmetic Ingredient Name (CosIng) website.
To further complicate matters the cosmetics industry developed a process known as Ethoxylation to reduce the potential irritation caused by SLS and make it milder on the skin and its name changed to SLES. However, this process of ethoxylation creates chemicals that are called endocrine disruptors which mimic oestrogen in the body and create hormone imbalances which have been linked to cases of breast cancer and pose a risk to environmental hazards.
*Our SCS is also certified by Ecocert to guarantee the best environmentally friendly and socially conscious production.
Sugar Beet • Yet another overlooked vegetable derivative, we use a natural betaine derived from sugar beet molasses for moisturising, conditioning and creating a creamy foam in our shampoo. A natural plant based moisturiser it specifically protects the equilibrium of the cells water balance so avoiding dehydration. This helps to increase water retention in the fibres, strengthening the hair and improving both the soft feel and shine of the hair. Sulfate Free Cleanser Quartet We have developed a complex blend of 4 sulfate free cleansing agents to create a balanced formula for all hair types. All our cleansers are derived from natural oils and in particular coconut oils which are perfect for creating gentle yet thorough cleansing without any irritation. It is worth noting that one of our cleansing agents is Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (SLS) but it is not related in any way to SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulphate). Our plant-based Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate is derived from coconut oil which is a natural, cleanser for both skin and hair. It gently but effectively removes surface oil, dirt and bacteria, without stripping or drying sensitive skin. It helps creates a rich foam and can also improve the suppleness and sheen of damaged hair as it is essentially a modified fatty acid.
Sunflower and Grapeseed Oils • Both sunflower and grapeseed oil are powerhouses of essential plant nutrients. Both oils are rich in vitamins A, B, C and E, key minerals such as iron, potassium and calcium, not to mention the Omega 6 and 9 fatty acids. They both help to alleviate dry scalps, protect against cellular damage, stimulate hair growth, protect against moisture loss and are even linked to dandruff protection. Grapeseed oil has the highest concentration of Linoleic acid (Omega 6) which is well documented for protection against moisture loss. It can help stimulates hair growth, maintain a healthy scalp condition and control water loss in your hair. Since grapeseed oil contains around 70% of this fatty acid it is easily absorbed into the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin and of course the hair follicles too. Grapeseed oil also contains a potent anti-oxidant compound which is measured around 50 times stronger than the more widely recognised vitamin C and E and provides effective protection against cellular damage caused by free radicals. Sunflower Oil is the perfect partner to the grapeseed oil; as well as being rich in the same vitamins and minerals its primary essential acid is Oleic ( Omega 9). This Omega 9 acid is one of the body’s essential acids and responsible for preventing brittle hair, fighting hair loss and helping stimulate hair growth. Its light and easily absorbable composition means it can penetrate into both the scalp and the hair follicle / hair shaft. A little known fact is that sunflower oil also contains menthol which can help towards conditions such as dandruff and other dry scalp issues.
Thermus Thermophillus Ferment • A marine bio culture that grows in deep sea volcanic thermal vents located in the Gulf of California. It is a natural anti-oxidant preventing infra-red induced damage and improving moisture levels on the scalp to help to promote healthy hair growth. The rather clever thing about this ingredient is that its protective action is proportional to temperature so its detoxifying effects increase with the surrounding heat; the perfect companion for your holiday overseas.
Vitamin E • One of the most efficient antioxidants known to us is found naturally in the body and assists in various kinds of cellular restoration from sun damage through to healing support for scars or burns.
Oxidative Stress is one of the main reasons for the deterioration of our collagen layer and Vitamin E can help repair some of the damage done to the collagen layer by helping to remove free radicals. Free radicals are essentially on a destructive quest to become stable, so they actively snatch an electron from anything that comes in its path, including DNA, skin proteins, connective tissues, and cell membranes. The more you can quench the free radicals' thirst for stability, the better your skin and hair will be protected, which is where vitamin E comes into it’s own."
Additionally, vitamin E has moisturising and healing benefits, helps to strengthen the skin barrier function and is a natural anti-inflammatory for soothing and calming the skin.
Vegetable Proteins • Derived from the humble potato our hair strengthening complex has a unique chemical composition which allows the plant proteins and amino acids to penetrate the hair shaft and increase the moisture content and elasticity of the hair. Coating each strand, it is able to assist in the lubrication and reinforcement of the cuticle to strengthen the hair even in extreme humidity.